The pistachio in Provence, an avenue to dig
Meeting with Jean-Louis Joseph, vice-president of the Pistache en Provence association
February 2022, the sun is bright and the air is particularly spring-like. We have an appointment in Provence, of course, in the charming town of La Bastidonne (Vaucluse). Here, nature is queen, the territories are largely occupied by forests of holm oaks and adopt the Mediterranean accent. Olive trees populate the curves of the landscape and Sainte-Victoire peaks on the horizon. Jean-Louis Joseph, vice-president of Pistache en Provence is waiting for us. We see souls busy planting singular shrubs, lined up like mikados, on loose soil. These are the object of our curiosity.
The importance of awareness
These shrubs are pistachio trees. Cultivated both for its fruits and for its decorative evergreen foliage, it appeared in Mesopotamia and was then distributed around the Mediterranean basin by the Greeks and then the Romans. Its cultivation was widespread in Provence until the beginning of the 20th century – the markets of Rognes and Lambesc attest to this – before disappearing, above all for economic reasons.
It was in 2018 that Jean-Louis Joseph, accompanied by Olivier Baussan (President of Territoire de Provence), Georgia Lambertin (President of the PACA Chamber of Agriculture) and
Bénédicte Martin (Vice-President, in charge of Agriculture, Viticulture, Rurality and Terroir in Vaucluse) decided to create the Pistache en Provence association, with the aim of defending and promoting the cultivation of pistachios in Provence.
It was in 2018 that Jean-Louis Joseph, accompanied by Olivier Baussan (President of Territoire de Provence), Georgia Lambertin (President of the PACA Chamber of Agriculture) and
Bénédicte Martin (Vice-President, in charge of Agriculture, Viticulture, Rurality and Terroir in Vaucluse) decided to create the Pistache en Provence association, with the aim of defending and promoting the cultivation of pistachios in Provence.
This initiative gives rise, first of all, to in-depth research, study trips (to favorable territories: Greece, Spain and Tunisia) then to the creation of experimental orchards, in partnership with the network of Chambers of Agriculture, the Regional Natural Park of Luberon at La Thomassine (house of Biodiversity), in Manosque. Wishing to share, raise awareness and inform in the most didactic way possible, this work will allow the publication of a book – “Le Pistachier” (ed. Rustica) – highlighting the richness of this tree with oil seeds, essential to the balance of our food.
In 2020, the Act for Planet association, which acts for the climate and biodiversity, is supporting the reintroduction of the pistachio tree, a hardy tree adapted to certain constraints and effects linked to climate change. She buys 550 pistachio trees, spread throughout the Provençal territory for more experimental plantations, in order to see how the tree reacts and adapts according to the different terroirs, from the hills of Vaucluse to the Albion plateau, from the chain of Trévaresse in the Massif des Maures. It is also a way to sequester carbon in the soil, refertilize the land and fight against erosion.
Then, in 2021, the Syndicat France Pistache was created. Reserved for producers who are members of the MSA, the entity supports producers and farmers wishing to participate in the reconquest of this shrub in Provence. Guarantor of the representation of producers’ interests and the promotion of production, it endeavors to help producers in their search for quality plants, to structure the sector (from the establishment of the pistachio orchard to the production of almond) and to support the future pistachio industry.
The pistachio tree, origins & culture
Between 1888 and 1904, Cézanne painted the Château Noir du Tholonet, a castle-bastide, bordered by a park where the pistachio tree flourishes. The latter will be one of the favorite subjects of the painter who made a work of it – “Pistachio tree in the courtyard of Château Noir” – now exhibited at the Art Institute of Chicago. The Sainte-Victoire is hemmed with it, and the Luberon bears witness to the obvious presence of the shrub.
But let’s turn the clock back a little further and stop in Iran, 4000 years ago. It is here, in the Middle East, that the pistachio tree takes root.
Then, a certain Lucius Vitellius, then Roman governor, imported it from Syria to popularize it in Italy. Renowned for its flavor and deployed for medicinal purposes, it then crosses centuries and territories, to establish itself, in perpetuity, in the Mediterranean basin.
12 species belonging to the Anacardiaceae family are now referenced.
But let’s turn the clock back a little further and stop in Iran, 4000 years ago. It is here, in the Middle East, that the pistachio tree takes root.
Then, a certain Lucius Vitellius, then Roman governor, imported it from Syria to popularize it in Italy. Renowned for its flavor and deployed for medicinal purposes, it then crosses centuries and territories, to establish itself, in perpetuity, in the Mediterranean basin.
12 species belonging to the Anacardiaceae family are now referenced.
This is when a question arises: what are the favorable conditions for growing Pistacia Vera? Dioecious shrub (the male and female flowers are borne by different trees), its development requires, first of all, to have quality plans, certified and enjoying a phytosanitary passport. The Syndicat France Pistache is also working in this direction, in order to soon provide growers and farmers with specifications referencing all the nurseries meeting these prerogatives.
The quality of the soil must be sandy and draining loam, even if the pistachio tree also adapts well to poor, calcareous, strongly alkaline or slightly acid soil, thanks to its powerful root system.
To guarantee adequate pollination, it is imperative to conjugate one male shrub for every eight female shrubs.
It is then the wind that will take care of depositing the pollen from the male tree on the female trees. When planting, the root ball should be broken a little so that the roots develop well and do not wrap around the root collar.
If it fears an excess of water, the pistachio tree, during the first 3 years after planting, requires regular watering and generous sunshine.
As the fruits have a staggered maturity, the harvest is carried out in two stages, in the fall. The latter will be timed, the tree only producing fruit every other year.
To guarantee adequate pollination, it is imperative to conjugate one male shrub for every eight female shrubs.
It is then the wind that will take care of depositing the pollen from the male tree on the female trees. When planting, the root ball should be broken a little so that the roots develop well and do not wrap around the root collar.
If it fears an excess of water, the pistachio tree, during the first 3 years after planting, requires regular watering and generous sunshine.
As the fruits have a staggered maturity, the harvest is carried out in two stages, in the fall. The latter will be timed, the tree only producing fruit every other year.
The Maison Brémond 1830 commitment
From the olive groves of Provence or Andalusia, through the almond trees of Valence or those of the Valensole plateau, Maison Brémond 1830 underlines and highlights the passion of these men and women who cultivate, transform the land and shape it into unique and moving landscapes.
Every day, Maison Brémond 1830 pursues its original vocation: to satisfy the palates of connoisseurs and defend a vision of southern gastronomy, in all authenticity. This is why Maison Brémond 1830 is committed to the Syndicat France Pistache and accompanies it – alongside players such as the network of Chambers of Agriculture, the Luberon Regional Natural Park or the Territoire de Provence – to encourage the reconquest of the pistachio tree in Provence and perpetuate its cultivation.
Book: « Le Pistachier », Magali Amir, Éditions Rustica
Site internet : https://www.pistacheenprovence.com/
Site internet : https://www.pistacheenprovence.com/